{"id":249,"date":"2014-11-02T21:32:58","date_gmt":"2014-11-03T04:32:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tubetime.us\/?p=249"},"modified":"2020-05-05T15:44:02","modified_gmt":"2020-05-05T15:44:02","slug":"miniature-coin-cell-nixie-tube-power-supply","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/2014\/11\/02\/miniature-coin-cell-nixie-tube-power-supply\/","title":{"rendered":"Miniature Coin Cell Nixie Tube Power Supply"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Update <\/strong>11\/3\/2014: Fixed the coil connections on the schematic, along with the inductance. Also, check out <a href=\"http:\/\/tubetime.us\/?p=258\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">this post<\/a>&nbsp;to see how the circuit works.<\/p>\n<p>This project <a href=\"http:\/\/tubetime.us\/?p=10\">has been a long time in progress<\/a>. It started years ago at a Maker Faire where I built a Nixie tube pendant powered by a lithium coin cell battery. Since then, I&#8217;ve decided to make a PC board and put together some instructions on how to build such a power supply yourself. These little supplies are great for steampunk jewelry or possibly single-digit Nixie tube clocks (they&#8217;re not quite strong enough to drive multiple tubes). The battery life should be around 3 hours or so for a CR2032 lithium coin cell.<br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/picasaweb.google.com\/lh\/photo\/EMhNerb9CPnE7s_T1cX3jbmrfDIpjB9zloc4aOPtHQQ?feat=embedwebsite\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/lh5.googleusercontent.com\/-N8OCEIYFBFo\/VFb_YZLlk5I\/AAAAAAAAFjg\/3ZlWxVT_dx8\/s400\/DSC_6717.NEF.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"266\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The schematic is below&#8211;click for a larger view.&nbsp;The bill of materials is <a href=\"http:\/\/tubetime.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/NixiePendant.csv\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">located here<\/a>, including Mouser Electronics part numbers. If you decide to order, get at least 5 of each part just in case you lose or burn up some of them. &nbsp;Note: Mouser seems to be out of stock for the T1 inductor, but <a href=\"http:\/\/www.digikey.com\/product-detail\/en\/SDR1005-822KL\/SDR1005-822KLCT-ND\/2127201\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Digikey has it here<\/a>.<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/tubetime.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/05\/nixiepowerschematic.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/lh5.googleusercontent.com\/-lZuiYy_Ra1c\/VFgoRPiES_I\/AAAAAAAAFkY\/SF-8dYbNmBQ\/s400\/nixiepowerschematic.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"309\"><\/a><br \/>\nQ1 is a single device; it actually contains two transistors which is why it looks like that on the schematic.<\/p>\n<p>To make it easier to build, I&#8217;ve put up a convenient <a href=\"https:\/\/oshpark.com\/shared_projects\/AVtntnaY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">OSH Park project page link<\/a> so you can order boards. When I ordered from them, it cost $2.80 for a set of three boards (with free USPS shipping). Not a bad deal at all!<\/p>\n<p>When you have boards and components, there&#8217;s a specific order of assembly that makes things a bit easier. See this YouTube video:<br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/TVslqpSRKj4\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Basically you need to assemble the components&nbsp;in the following order:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Solder C1.<\/li>\n<li>Solder Q1. Be sure you line up the beveled edge with the extra-wide silkscreen. If you put it in backwards the power supply will not work.<\/li>\n<li>Flip the board over.<\/li>\n<li>Solder D1, then R2, and then C2. C2 is 0.01uF, similar to C1, but it has a 250V rating. It is very important not to mix these up.<\/li>\n<li>Solder R1, and then T1 (the big&nbsp;coil, not marked on the silkscreen).<\/li>\n<li>Take a piece of 32 gauge magnet wire that is 13 inches long and tin about 1\/8 of an inch at one end. I use a soldering iron to burn off the varnish. Solder it into the upper left through hole that is below the coil.<\/li>\n<li>Wrap 5 turns clockwise around the coil T1. Thread the end of the wire into the middle through hole below the coil.<\/li>\n<li>Turn the wire around and thread it back through the same hole, pulling it tight to form a tiny loop. Solder the loop to the through hole.<\/li>\n<li>Take the wire and wrap another 5 turns clockwise around the coil. Thread the end through the top right through hole below the coil, and solder it in place. Trim off any excess.<\/li>\n<li>Get another piece of 32 gauge magnet wire that is 5 inches long, and tin about 1\/8 of an inch at one end. Solder it into the lower left hole that is below the coil.<\/li>\n<li>Wrap 2 turns clockwise around the coil T1. Thread the end of the wire through the lower&nbsp;right through hole that is below the coil. Solder it, and then trim off any excess<\/li>\n<li>Solder the inductor L1. The reason it needs to be soldered last is that it makes it hard to wind wire around the coil T1.<\/li>\n<li>Solder connecting leads to the +, -, and OUT terminals.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>To use it, connect a coin cell&#8217;s negative terminal to &#8220;-,&#8221; the coin cell positive to &#8220;+,&#8221; and &#8220;OUT&#8221; to the anode of a Nixie tube. The Nixie tube cathode goes to the coin cell negative terminal. Don&#8217;t touch the &#8220;OUT&#8221; terminal&#8211;you could get a shock. In fact, if you build the power supply into jewelry or something people will be touching, insulate all the connections.<\/p>\n<p>Have fun!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Update 11\/3\/2014: Fixed the coil connections on the schematic, along with the inductance. Also, check out this post&nbsp;to see how the circuit works. This project has been a long time in progress. It started years ago at a Maker Faire where I built a Nixie tube pendant powered by a lithium coin cell battery. Since [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p80Z1r-41","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/249"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=249"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/249\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":541,"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/249\/revisions\/541"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=249"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=249"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tubetime.us\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=249"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}