A Miniaturized Discrete MC1466

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Update: the bill of materials is now available. You can order boards from OSH Park using this direct link. Last time I ordered, it cost me a grand total of $3.55 for three boards (free shipping), and it took about two weeks for the boards to arrive.

I screwed up. My bench power supply is a Lambda LPT-7202-FM triple output (0-7V @ 5A, 0-20V @ 1.5A, 0-20V @ 1.5A), and I blew it up by trying to desulfate a lead-acid battery. The idea is to take a dead lead-acid battery and recondition it by charging it with a current-limited 15V source while feeding it high voltage pulses. I had a diode connected in between the battery and the bench supply to protect the power supply from the high voltage pulses. Well, the diode failed. It was a sad day.

Fortunately the service manual for the supply is available online. I traced around the circuit and found that two of the power control chips were fried, but everything else seemed OK–I could move the one remaining functional chip from channel to channel to confirm that. The control chips were marked with the Motorola logo and a Lambda house part number: FBT-031. A forum thread indicated that the part was actually the MC1466. Sadly this chip is long out of production and a bit hard to find, although a popular auction site had several listed from a seller in China (but who knows if the parts were counterfeit or not).

The datasheet has the full schematic including resistor values, but how do I know that it actually matches the chip? Since the IC is packaged in a ceramic DIP, I followed reader Uwe’s suggestion and took a chisel to one of the dead parts.

It worked and nothing was damaged! The die looks like this:

I went over the layout and it matches up with the datasheet schematic. Those funny round elements are actually zener diodes. You can see the long skinny resistors and the lateral PNPs as well as the NPN transistors and diodes. Below is the schematic (click to enlarge):

The IC design is pretty archaic. I’d say it dates to the late 1960s. There are fairly ordinary differential amplifiers, but the current mirrors are really strange, and the voltage reference circuit uses Zener diodes and series-connected diodes instead of a temperature compensated bandgap reference. The two Zener diodes (the only round features on the die) are probably just reverse biased NPN transistors, using the ~7.5V avalanche breakdown of the base-emitter junction. The lateral PNPs have a much higher breakdown voltage so they can’t be used this way.

Here’s a labeled die photo (click for a larger image) so you can see where each of the components are. The component designators match up with my schematic, not the IC datasheet schematic.

The device is simple enough that I decided to build a really small PC board with discrete components. I found that the BC847BVN (NPN/PNP dual transistor), BC847BV (dual NPN), and BAS16VV (triple diode) came in a really tiny SOT-563 package. Believe it or not, this is not the tightest or smallest layout I’ve done. This is a 2-layer board with 6 mil traces and 6 mil spaces.

To give you an idea just how small the SOT-563 is, take a look at the first BC847BVN I soldered:

The part is 1.05mm x 1.05mm! I had to use a very fine soldering iron tip and a microscope. Another trick is to use really thin solder (I used 0.38mm). As you can see, the resulting board is just slightly larger than the original DIP IC:

It really is pin compatible. I plugged two of them into my Lambda supply and now it works perfectly!

Mel, Blackjack, and the LGP-30

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A friend passed on the following articles regarding a rather famous hack:

https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=7869771
http://www.jamtronix.com/blog/2011/03/25/on-the-trail-of-a-real-programmer/

The LGP-30 was an early computer manufactured in 1956 and sold by the Royal McBee division of the Royal Typewriter Company. It had 113 vacuum tubes, 1450 diodes, a magnetic drum memory, and an oscilloscope screen with a template marking the register bits (instead of the more traditional panel with blinking lights). Mel wrote a lot of code for this machine, including a blackjack demo program, entirely in raw machine code, taking advantage of various quirks in the machine to keep the program very compact.

The Jamtronix blog has a link to a purported paper tape dump of Mel’s program.

Foolishly I decided to figure out the paper tape dump. I succeeded, and it looks like it’s in a format that a bootloader was supposed to understand, but not the bootloader documented in the LGP-30 manual. So first I ran the raw file into a popcount routine to see what the most common letters were. It was a subset of the alphabet, but had all the numbers except for the number ‘1’.

Wat?

Back then they did a few strange things. One of them was using the lowercase letter ‘L’ as the number 1. Right. Also, since the LGP-30 was hexadecimal, they used extra letters to represent numbers beyond 9, but instead of using a-f, they used fgjkqw.

Then the single quote ‘ is used as a record delimiter, and the letter ‘v’ at the beginning of the block of records identifies the track and sector where the data is to be loaded. Each block has 64 words, 8 per line (which fits perfectly in a single track on the magnetic drum memory). To save space, they omit leading zeros, so incoming characters of 4 bits each are shifted left 4 at a time. At the end of the block is a stray word whose purpose I cannot figure out. I suspect it’s a parity or checksum, but it doesn’t match a simple checksum of all the data.

This machine’s architecture is a clever nightmare. Self modifying code was encouraged and was the standard way to accomplish common tasks. For example, to branch to a subroutine, you do this:

1000: r 3050     <- Set up return address by writing PC+2 to the destination address of the instruction at 3050.
1001: u 3000     <- Unconditional branch to address 3000.
1002: ...        <- Magically we pop up back here!
...
3050  u 0000     <- Looks like a unconditional branch to location 0 right? No, it's just a placeholder address. Yay, we can do without a link register!

And Mel coded this up in machine code. Probably because the “assembly” mnemonics are not particularly helpful, he must have quickly memorized the opcodes themselves. And why did he use instructions as data? The machine doesn’t decode the upper 12 bits of a word, so if you didn’t use it, it was just wasted. Basically the architecture of the machine naturally led Mel down this slippery slope.

So you might think that Librascope/Royal McBee, based on customer feedback for this machine, must have simplified the design for a later machine, the RPC-4000. And you would be wrong–it’s even worse…

Anyway, here’s my disassembled version: blackjack.txt. The track number is listed first, once for every block. In each block, every line has the sector number first, followed by the instruction mnemonic, following by the track and sector numbers of the instruction’s target. After that are the raw bits. The first two instructions are clear instructions followed by an unconditional branch. This goes to track 49 sector 34. You can follow the instruction flow from there.

As for me, I’m going to stop now before I accidentally learn how to program the LGP-30.

 

Oscilloscope Video Monitor

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Watch this YouTube video, and then read the rest of the post.

So how did I do it? It is actually a very simple circuit.
Basic Ramper Schematic

The LM1881 separates the sync signals from the NTSC composite video coming from the camera. It outputs a vertical sync signal (active low) that asserts during the vertical retrace period and a composite sync signal (also active low) that asserts during the horizontal retrace period and also during the vertical retrace period (but with a set of serration and equalization pulses).

To connect these to my oscilloscope, I have to use the XY mode on the scope and convert the sync signals into deflection signals. This is done using analog ramp generators. The simplest way is to use an RC circuit to generate a rather nonlinear ramp. When the sync signal goes high, it charges the capacitor through the resistor. When the sync signal goes low, the diode allows the capacitor to discharge immediately. This generates the sawtooth waveform. Adjust the R value so you get the most complete ramp (goes most of the way up to 5V).

The video signal is fed directly into the Z-axis signal at the back of the scope. Because the Z-axis signal has the opposite polarity from regular video (it is a blanking signal, where a positive voltage will turn the beam off), I had to build a really basic video buffer to invert the signal. This is a nice exercise in transistor biasing using four external resistors. Don’t ask me for the schematic–you should try to build it yourself. Even if you don’t get it working properly right away, you’ll discover all sorts of interesting analog video effects!

Point Contact Transistor

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My friend Jeri Ellsworth recently figured out how to make a point contact transistor by cracking open a germanium diode. It looked pretty straightforward so (deviating from this blog’s usual content) I took a crack at it myself:

Point Contact PNP

The original diode contact serves as the emitter connection. The base is the chip of germanium that is visible in the bottom part of the diode (with the stripe). The collector is a piece of phosphor bronze wire I pulled off the end of a guitar string. I sharpened it to a point with a Dremel sanding wheel and soldered it to a piece of bare wire to make it easier to handle.

The fine-pitched screws are used to maneuver the wires into contact with the block of germanium.

The germanium base is actually n-doped. To create the collector junction, you have to create p-doped regions. One crude way to do this is to apply a burst of current across the reverse-biased junction (positive voltage to base, negative voltage to collector). I don’t know if the mechanism is thermal or electrical, but phosphorus from the phosphor bronze wire gets carried into the germanium, creating the p-type region. For this experiment I used about 200V on a 10uF capacitor, and I discharged it into the junction through a 1K resistor. Jeri originally used something like 20V but I read in a paper several hundred volts were usually used for this purpose.

Jeri used an oscillator circuit to test her transistor, but I got lazy and just put it in a simple inverting amplifier circuit. At first the transistor didn’t work (output was in phase with the input) but after some tweaking of the wires, the output finally went 180 degrees out of phase. This is an absolutely terrible transistor, and the gain is really too low to consider this a transistor.

Point Contact PNP - Inverting Amplifier In/Out

I’m going to play around with it a bit more to see if I can improve the gain…

Modifying an AC Adapter’s Output Voltage

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My IEE clock runs on about 6.5VDC. Why the odd voltage? There are sundry voltage drops throughout the circuit that require the power supply voltage to be higher than the 6V rating for the light bulbs. The problem is that you just can’t find 6.5V AC adapters.

Fortunately it’s quite simple to modify an existing AC adapter to run at the new voltage. I’m sure there are other people who might want to get their own custom output voltages, so here’s a short tutorial.

Disclaimer: if you go ahead with this project, you’re doing it at your own risk. AC line voltage is quite dangerous and you could be injured or even killed. If you get shocked, get medical attention right away: there have been people (often with a previously undiagnosed heart condition) who have received a “small shock” only to drop dead a couple of hours later.

Here is what you need: A switching AC adapter, a flat screwdriver, a soldering iron, an assortment of surface mount resistors, and some time. It is important that the AC adapter is of the new switching style rather than the old transformer style–usually you can tell if the AC adapter feels light and is small enough not to block adjacent outlets, yet has a relatively high current rating for its size. I am starting off with a fairly generic 5V 2 amp AC adapter. Yours will likely use a similar circuit inside.

Quick side note: Why are the new AC adapters so much smaller? First, to provide a given amount of power, a transformer (copper windings around some type of core material) has a physical size that decreases as the frequency goes up. A transformer designed to operate at 60Hz or 50Hz  is going to be much larger than a transformer that is designed to operate at 15KHz. Since the frequency of the AC line is fixed, these new AC adapters work by converting the input AC to a much higher frequency. There is also a little circuit that looks at the output voltage and tweaks the converter circuit to maintain a constant output voltage. Thus, the new AC adapters have much better regulation than the old styles. As an added bonus, this type of design can operate at 50Hz, 60Hz, 120V, or 240V! To get into more detail, there is a feedback circuit that compares the output voltage to a voltage reference, then sends an error signal to the converter circuit at the primary side of the transformer. The error signal is isolated (for your safety) using an optocoupler.

To take apart the AC adapter, crowbar the plastic halves of the case where they meet in the middle. Try to find the little plastic catches that keep the halves together. You might need two screwdrivers to get them to come apart. Inside you can see a little circuit board with components and some wires.

Modifying an AC Adapter

To modify the output circuit, the feedback circuit must be modified. I sketched out the circuit and learned that this particular AC adapter uses a clone of the TL431 reference+error amplifier circuit (which is the weird zener-diode looking thing in the photo above). This particular device, the AM431, has an internal 2.495V reference. The output voltage is divided down so it can be compared with 2.495V, and this is done with a resistive divider formed by R1 (4.87K) and R10 (5.23K). R10 goes to the output voltage, and R1 goes to ground. In this design, I can only modify R1 since R10 (acting in combination with the feedback capacitor) also determines the loop compensation pole (no need to mess with this). Based on my reverse-engineered schematic of the secondary side, the formula for the output voltage is Vout = (1 + R10/R1) * 2.495. Replacing R1 with a 3.3K resistor should bump up the output voltage.

It’s easier to remove a surface mount resistor using two soldering irons, but if you only have one, you can blob a bunch of solder on top of the resistor to wet both sides, and then flick it off with the iron. Be careful to get rid of any splattered solder since it could cause some dangerous short circuits.

You can test it before putting the case back on by plugging it into a power strip that has a circuit breaker and a switch–turn it off first! Connect a multimeter to the outputs with alligator clips, and use one hand to switch on the power and check the voltage. If you want to be a little extra safe you could plug the power strip into a GFI outlet. The safest approach (especially if you want to take measurements on the AC line side of the isolation barrier) is to connect the whole rig to an isolation transformer. Once you’ve confirmed that it works, put the case back together and mark the label with the new output voltage. If the output voltage is higher, you will need to decrease the current rating proportionally. If you’re decreasing the output voltage, you shouldn’t increase the current rating since internal components may have a pretty low maximum current capability.

If you want more information about the TL431 (which is a really neat little device that could be useful for lots of other circuits), check out this application note: Designing with the TL431.

Nixie Tubes!

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Recently I purchased a number of nixie tubes from the local electronics flea market:

Nixie Tubes

A few of them caught my eye. This Burroughs B-5448 one was most likely used in a calculator or possibly a meter to indicate plus and minus as well as the overload condition.

Burroughs B-5448 Nixie

And this National NL-989 was used for indicating the unit or mode of a multimeter. There are two “partitions” in this nixie tube: one contains the symbols “A”, “M”, and “K”, while the other contains “C”, “V”, and “Ω”. The multimeter would have used this to indicate “AC”, “MV”, “KV”, “MΩ”, “KΩ”, and so on.

National NL-989 Nixie

Notice how the glow is a different color in each tube? My camera did an excellent job of reproducing the correct color, so what you see is very close to what the ionized gas actually looks like. The National tube appears to contain mostly neon, while the Burroughs shows light blue “fringing”, indicating the presence of mercury, which was used to increase the lifespan of the tube.

RCA 6499 Radechon

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At the electronics flea market I found a rather interesting-looking vacuum tube. It appears to be a CRT but with a metal cap at the end.
Radechon

As it turns out, this device is a memory which could have been used in some old computers, storing around 16 kilobits. It could also have been used in radar systems for converting polar coordinate-based sweeps to raster sweeps (like a TV). The socket end contains an ordinary electron gun like the one found in a CRT, but the front end does not contain the usual phosphor screen. Instead, there is a 1mil thick sheet of mica with a fine grid of wires laid on top. On the other side of the mica there is a metal plate.
Radechon
Here’s a closeup showing the metallic screen on the front. The mica underneath capacitively stores electrons that are laid down by the electron beam. This memory can store analog waveforms since higher voltages are represented by a higher density of electrons at a particular spot, and lower voltages correspond with a lower electron density.
Radechon

Data for the tube is available from David Forbes.

Here are a couple of other sites with information:

Åke’s Tubedata

World Power Systems

Virtual Valve Museum

Cold War Infrastructure (A full-page RCA ad for the device)

Coby DP-151SX Hacking – LCD Extraction and Interrogation

Cleverness, Projects 21 Comments

In this previous post I disassembled the Coby DP-151SX digital picture frame. This device is very hackable, and includes a lot of goodies such as a Li-Ion battery and battery charger circuit as well as a neat little color LCD display with a white LED backlight. The pinout for the LCD is in the previous post.

The MAXQ2000 microcontroller development board I have uses a 0.1″ spacing header to connect to the I/O pins, so I made a little adapter and wired it up to the LCD connector using wire-wrap wire. It uses 13 I/O lines, but that could be reduced 11 if CS# is wired to ground and RST# tied to a separate reset IC (such as a MAX811). It’s actually a good idea to use CS#, because you can then multiplex the functionality of all the other pins and recover that I/O.

Here is a picture showing the LCD up and running with a simple test pattern:
Coby DP-151 Photo Keychain - LCD Extraction and Interrogation

It’s not 128×128, but actually 132×132 pixels. The color depth is 16-bit using a fairly standard 5-6-5 bit encoding. See the PCF8833 datasheet for more details.

Spark Fun has a similar LCD display which uses the same controller, only it costs $20. Amazon.com sells the Coby-151SX in black for $10. Not a bad deal: for $10 less you get a Li-Ion battery, mini-USB cable, and a driver CD, which you could use as a coaster for your Mountain Dew to help with the LCD programming. Spark Fun has some sample code which you should easily be able to adapt for parallel mode (since the Coby LCD connector brings out the parallel data lines, unlike the Spark Fun LCD).

The source code for my test program will get posted once I clean it up and possibly add functionality (Character fonts? Bit blitters?)

Vietnamese iPhone 3G Hacking

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CNET’s Crave has a really fascinating post about a gentleman in Vietnam who has figured out how to unlock 3G iPhones–as of this writing, there is no software way to unlock this phone.

Unlocking iPhone 3Gs–the Vietnamese way

There are some interesting pictures showing some methods used by the Vietnamese technicians to remove and replace the flash memory device. They use a cheap hardware store heat gun, which is normally used to strip paint, to heat the solder until it melts, and then they remove it with tweezers. One of the problems with this sort of rework is that the adjacent components often loosen and shift or even fly off completely.

Look at the last picture in the article. The technician is using some small metal plates to protect the other components from the blast of hot air. Genius!